Outer Banks of North Carolina

After visiting Colonial Williamsburg we drove to the Outer Banks of North Carolina. We planned on staying overnight so reserved a room at the Cameron House Inn on Roanoke Island.

The drive to the Outer Banks was very interesting and fun. Shortly after crossing into North Carolina from Virginia the road began to change to more beach like, that is, more rural and then many small shops on a narrow sand dune that seems to go on for mile after mile. Our first stop was the Wright Bros Memorial where the boys flew the frist airplane in 1912. Bev is standing at the exact spot they took off and in the distance you can see where they landed. They flew 4 times that day but it took many years before they turned it into a a financial success.

We stopped for lunch at Awful Arthurs Oyster Bar for a very nice sea food lunch. It was very good but not nearly as good as the restaurant we went to the next day. More about that later. We drove down the Banks until we reached Nags Head and the bridge to Roanoke Island. We found the Cameron House Inn and relaxed for a bit before going to the Waterside Theatre for "The Lost Colony". Written by Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright Paul Green, The Lost Colony is performed summer nights by a company of more than 100 actors, dancers, singers and technicians in the historic outdoor Waterside Theatre. It was opening night for the season and we both enjoyed the play that went from dusk to after 11 PM. We were having so much fun we decided to stay another night.

The Cameron House Inn was booked so we drove down the street and found the Tranquil House Inn which had one room left. We booked it and took off again, this time for Ocracoke Island which was the hiding place for Blackbeard the pirate. We had to take a 40 minute ferry (free) to get to the island which was one of the things we looked forward to. The ferry ride was fun and when we got to the island we went directly to Teach's Hole which was a small museum at the little bay where Blackbeard hid his ships. Bev and I like lighthouses so we stop at every one we see. This lighthouse is the shortest on the Outer Banks and is on Ocracoke Island.

On our way back to Roanoke Island we stopped for dinner at the Lone Cedar Cafe which was recommended by the innkeeper at the Cameron House Inn. This is the restaurant I referenced above. The innkeeper recommended we try the "She Crab" soup and was it GREAT. Bev had the seared Flounder and I had a combination plate; We finished by sharing a piece of Key Lime pie. Wow, was it great! The Lone Ceder Cafe serves only local fresh seafood (they even list who caught the fish on the menu). They also have a garden in which they grow fresh veggies for use in their salads. The last few pictures were taken at the restaurant.

Taking A Week Off

Bev arrived on the 22nd and I was ready to take a week off from sailing. We decided to take a week and see some sites around Southern Virginia and Northern North Carolina. Bev's cousin Randy and his wife Christina live in Virginia Beach and offered us the use of Randy's pickup for the week. Randy took some time off from flying and got us orientated to the area.


Then it was off in the pickup for the military and historical sites in Norfolk. We visited the Nauticus museum including the battleship "Wisconsin" and then took the harbor cruise on the "Victory Rover". We saw many ships but the highlight for Bev and I was the "USS Cole" which was bombed in Yemen a few years ago and is now repaired and back in service.

The next day we headed for Yorktown. Yorktown is where the British General Cornwallis surrendered to George Washington which led to victory for the US in the Revolutionary War. The history is fascinating and include many things that I did not know. The French are truly responsible for our victory because their Navy (under French Admiral de Grasse in photo next to Bev) prevented the British Navy from saving Cornwallis in the naval Battle of the Capes. There were no Americans involved in that battle and it forced Cornwallis to surrender. At the Yorktown Battlefield we found that the French also won major parts of the Battle of Yorktown which sealed Cornwallis's fate. While in Yorktown we found a little restaurant on the Yorktown River for lunch. While looking out across the river we wondered if this was the same bridge that we crossed after visiting Kirk and Ruth Foley 20 years ago? I happen to have Kirk's phone number in my cell phone so I called him. Sure enough, it was and Kirk was able to describe to us where his marina was. Cool!

That evening Christina invited us over to their home for a homemade Chinese dinner. The first thing we did was put on the slippers Christina gave us (a Chinese tradition). The conversation and dinner was incredible and delicious. I think she spoiled us for "American" Chinese food with her authentic Chinese food. She agreed to take us to a genuine Chinese grocery store before we left (which she did the next Sunday). Randy and Christina have very interesting lives and a beautiful home and we enjoyed being with them.

Another interesting aspect of our stay here is the fact that we are right next to a combination Navy and Army base/fort. Thus we have bugles playing the "Star Spangled Banner" every morning and "Retreat" every evening. It is the home of a SEAL Group (formerly SEAL group 6) and a Joint Expeditionary Force.

Our next trip was to Colonial Williamsburg which we assumed (correctly) would take more than one day so we got reservations for the night on line. We walked to the old town center and took a horse drawn wagon tour of the town. As we approached the wagon I noticed the driver resting under a tree. I said something like "I hope you have the air on" but he didn't say a thing. As it turned out the actors stay in character all the time and are full time actors, not part time or volunteers.

This makes the experience very real and historically correct. One of the historically correct things I really enjoyed was the glass of Old Stitch ale I had at Chownings Tavern. Old Stitch is made from an original recipe and is what many people drank back in the 1700's. The Jefferson presentation was very real and we were able to ask questions which he answered from Jefferson's point of view. Many of the presentations are interactive so when we went to the courthouse for a trial I was put on trial for not attending church. They gave me a short script to read but then expanded on it asking me questions and demanding answers, it was real fun! Then we went to an example of dances from the period and we learned to dance like George Washington did.

After learning a new dance we went outside to the street where they were acting out a typical day in pre-revolutionary Colonial Williamsburg. Tomorrow we head for the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

Alligator River to Nortfolk

On the 18th I sailed to the Alligator River Marina, on the 19th to Midway Marina, and on the 20th to Tidewater Marina in Norfolk (ICW MM 0). It took me 31 days to move 1014 miles up the ICW. Eight of those days were "rest" days so I really spent 23 days sailing and motoring alone on Summer Snow. Many people have asked "would you do it again?" The answer is Yes, I would do it again because it was a very interesting and challenging experience but I would change a few things. It would have been a lot easier with a "shoal keel" of less than 5 ft. and it would have been more fun with another person (Bev) on board. On the other hand I have gained great experience by "single handing" Summer Snow so that docking and anchoring in new or strange conditions are not big issues anymore. My confidence in handing the sails alone and navigating has increased so that I can relax and enjoy sailing in "new waters".

The Alligator River is part man made and part natural river. There was regular barge traffic and debris such as this tree (second picture) floating in the middle of the channel. I stayed at the Alligator River Marina which was a combination truck stop and marina. The food was good and the people very friendly.


Next was the Midway Marina which is an older facility but had everything I needed such as ice and a nice shower. The on site restaurant (third picture) looked a little "iffy" but was OK when you got inside.

After leaving Midway Marina I only had 49.5 miles of ICW to go. I planned on staying over night at Tidewater Marina when I got to Norfolk so I could rest up and get organized. Then the next day I sailed to Ocean View Fishing Harbor where Randy (Bev's cousin) and Christina keep their boat, Miss Molly. There I waited for Bev who arrived on the 22nd.

Nortfolk is a huge harbor (worlds largest naval shipyard) with tugs, container ships, US Navy ships, Coast Guard ships, harbor tours, and all kinds of private boats. It was said that you could put every ship in the world in the harbor (Hampton Roads) and still have room for more.

The whole region has a large military presence including the largest and oldest VA hospital in the US. The last picture is Hospital Point with the main building of the VA hospital which was built in the early 1800's.

As soon as Bev arrives we will spend a week visiting with Randy and Christina and seeing the sites in Southern Virginia and Northern North Carolina, particularly Yorktown, Williamsburg, and the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

Oriental and Belhaven NC

After leaving Morehead City my next stop was Oriental, NC. Oriental is a sailing destination because it is located on the Neuse River which opens up onto Pamlico Sound. It is not a very big place but has some nice shops and is kind of sail orientated. The sail was not too eventful except for a few barges on Adam's Creek.

After a very nice evening at Oriental I got an early start on Monday morning to my next destination, Belhaven. I was able to sail and motor sail all morning and made great time with the wind on my beam or off the port quarter. Things seemed very good until I got to the Pamlico River. That's when the wind really picked up and the water became rough. I made for Belhaven with the waves on my beam which made Summer Snow very uncomfortable. The wind was howling behind the Belhaven breakwater and I called into the Belhaven Waterway Marina only to be put off for a half hour and then told that they could not accommodate me due to my 5.5 ft draft. It seems that they could have figured that out in less time but whatever! I turned back and called into another rather old looking marina that I had passed up. They were very accommodating and I got right in. After doubling up my dock lines and putting every fender out I decided that I would stay here until the wind backs down. Here is is Tuesday and the wind is still raging. I have a little time cushion so I'll just hang tight for a few days if necessary.

This marina is kind of interesting although not much of it is open. It was a country inn with a long history of catering to political big wigs. It looks like a fancy hotel or plantation house with tennis courts, swimming pool, bar, restaurant, etc. According to one of the locals there is a bar in the attic that was a speakeasy back during Prohibition. The only things open are the gas dock and the restrooms. The owner said we could watch television in the lounge any time we want but the lounge, restaurant, etc are not open for business.

Belhaven is a town of about 4000 so there is a small cafe and bakery about 5 blocks away and a FoodLion store about a mile away so I'm not hurting too bad.

Morehead City

I was able to call my friends, Phil and Kathleen, and they directed me into the Morehead City transient dock. Unfortunately the current was such that I could not get Summer Snow into a slip. Everything I tried failed and she swung broadside before pointing into the slip. This made for a few exciting moments and after six tries I went to a marina that had a "wall" type dock and waited there until the current went slack. Then I got into the transient slip OK.

While waiting for slack current Phil and I went and had a slice of pizza at a great little local pizza place that Phil wanted me to try. Then we went to a coffee place and enjoyed a wonderful brew. Phil and Kathleen are such gracious hosts you would think I was a long lost relative. Phil seems to know everyone in Morehead City and Beaufort and so we had a great day seeing the towns including the Nina and Pinta which were on display at the Beaufort waterfront.

After seeing much of the towns we went back to Phil and Kathleen's home and they let me do my laundry while they made a fantastic steak and baked potato supper (they wanted to fix a "Midwestern" meal). After supper we went to the Beaufort Music Festival and finally to the Dairy Queen to meet their son Philip and have an ice cream. Phil came down to the dock at daybreak the next day and helped me cast off. What great friends you make on sailing adventures!

Surf City to Swansboro NC

After spending a night in Southport NC I entered the Cape Fear River. My speed dropped to 1.5 knots and I remembered a fellow cruiser back in Myrtle Beach asking me "what are you going to do with the Cape Fear River?" I didn't have an answer because I didn't know what the issue was but now I know. The ICW follows the river for 6 or 7 miles and it flows at 2+ knots. Those two knots plus a falling tide of about 1.5 knot is subtracted from your SOG (speed over ground). There really was little I could do because the next rising tide wasn't until well into the afternoon and if I waited for that I would be on the ICW after dark (not a good idea). So I just relaxed and let Summer Snow grind it out.

I got to Surf City a little late so checked into a little marina there. The marina manager said that the Nina and Pinta replicas were coming in so I prepared for a photo op. Unfortunately they didn't come in until well after dark. They must be real true replicas because they did not have auxiliary power and had to be pushed to the wall with little boats. No matter, I can take some photos in the morning. Wrong! They left before daybreak and I have not seen them since. :>(

From Surf City I went to Swansboro which is a very nice little town on the ICW. It seems that every city has an "Old Town" section with little shops and resturants for tourists. Swansboro is no exception so I found a great little expresso/bakery shop and relaxed with a brew and a sweet roll. Yum!

Next it is on the Morehead City where I will meet my friends Phil and Kathleen who I met while crossing to the Bahamas.

On to North Carolina

I left North Myrtle Beach at daybreak with a goal of reaching Southport, NC. There were no restroom or shower facilities at Myrtle Beach so I was anxious to move on. The ICW continues to be beautiful here with many small inlets to the ocean. I got a good "kick" with the tides pushing me instead of holding me back so I made real good time arriving in Southport at 2:30 PM. I will spend an extra day here resting up for the next leg.

I saw a guy canoeing up the ICW today. His canoe was packed full so I think he was going a long way. Southport has some nice restaurants so this will be a welcome break. I will also get to refill my water tank with fresh water and do a few boat projects.

As I was checking in a guy came up behind me and said "what are you doing here?" I turned and it was Tim who I met in Marsh Harbor Bahamas. Tim had arrived the day before and had just experienced a terrible crossing. He had two inexperienced sailors on board who got very sea sick plus many mechanical failures. His engine died just as they left the Abacos and then his auto steering quit. Then the toilets plugged up and the non-sailor girl got real upset and nasty. She locked herself in the forward stateroom for a couple of days and wouldn't come out. When she did come out there was vomit all over the place. Then she demanded to get off the boat even though they were still 50 miles off shore. Finally her boyfriend (also sea sick) payed SeaTow $1000 to come and get her off the sailboat. Money well spent from Tim's viewpoint. He said it was 4 days of hell with her on board.

Charleston to Georgetown to Myrtle Beach

I have been pushing real hard and am dog tired so this will be a short posting. I took a few pics but am too tired to fix them up and add them so I'll add them later when I'm more awake.

I left Charleston at first light and made 60+ miles to Georgetown, SC. George town is a really cool little town that has renovated their downtown into a beautiful waterfront walk that includes many little shops and restaurants. It is worthy of a stop by anyone who is in the area. They even have their own museum on the main drag.

I left at first light again and headed for Myrtle Beach. Lots of golf courses along the ICW and many upscale homes and "starter mansions". What was interesting though was the beautiful forests that lined the ICW. The tall trees came right up to waters edge unlike the marshes that I have been going through. This reminded me of the Boundary Waters in appearances except for the moss hanging from most of the trees. I am definitely out of palm tree country.

Charleston Again

I could not upload the last two pictures from Charleston when I posted the first Charleston bit. I don't know why it would not upload so I waited and uploaded them tonight. Go figure!

No visit to a southern city would be complete without a picture of the local confederate memorial and I had to include a picture of Ft. Sumter as it was the center of my interest.

Charleston South Carolina

My next stop was Charleston after sailing and motoring all day in a driving rain. It stopped just as I was docking and then started again. It cleared up about 6 PM so I was able to get out and get a few things done. First I changed oil in Summer Snow. Then I filled with fuel and topped up my water supply. Summer Snow's tender is leaking so I will pull it up on the dock, find the leak, and fix it. as you can see in the picture the deed was done and it doesn't leak any more. I have no idea how it got punctured.

This is a great town to take a rest day. Many of the buildings are from the 1700's and the city has done a wonderful job of preserving their heritage. On one street there is a mile of museums and historical buildings including two churches that George Washington attended during his 1791 visit.
There was, of course, the memorials to civil war battles and statues of Confederate heroes in every park. South Carolina was the first state to secede and Charleston was the site of the first battle (Fort Sumter) and thus the first Confederate victory. For a history buff this is a great place to visit!

Hilton Head Island to Mile Marker 509

Today was kind of rough. I got on the water early and after about an hour entered Port Royal Sound. A sound is a big bay that opens to the ocean and may be deep enough for ships or may not be. Port Royal Sound is not an "Inlet" for ships and there is no large harbor for ships. Sounds can get rough and today Port Royal Sound was rough. The wind was right on my nose and the white caps were really rolling. Summer Snow could only make 3.5 knots into the waves and wind so crossing the sound took forever. I made it without problems but was wet and tired when I got across. The dodger really saved the day! Today was the first day of the trip when I put on long jeans instead of shorts. When I left this morning it was in the 40s and it just made it into the mid 70s all day.

As I got through Port Royal Sound I passed Paris Island, the Marine Corps boot camp. I have included a picture of it here and I think this is a good way to visit Paris Island, from the water and from a distance ;>)

I went through a twist bridge today (Ladies Island Bridge) which is kind of unique. Most of the modern lift bridges are the bascule type (lift from the center) because they open and close fast. This bridge appeared to be very old and it took a long time for it to open and close.

I will anchor tonight at MM 509 which is a very nice bend in the South Edisto River.

Georgia Anchorages

Georgia is a difficult state if you are using the ICW. There are many shoal passages and the ICW tends to wander all over so sometimes you are going south instead of north. The shoal passages require you to time your passage so that you are getting some "tide help", usually half to full tide before passing (the tide runs about 7 to 8 ft). That shortens the distance you can travel because sometimes you are just waiting for the water to rise.

Another issue is the bugs. I took a photo of the anchorage area I chose for tonight. As you can see I am in a very big marsh which is typical of most of the ICW so far in Georgia. The guide book puts the description "buggy" in nearly all of the remote anchorages here. I was warned of the "No Seeums" but no one said anything about the mosquitoes and the horse flies. You don't sit out in the cockpit at dusk here! I'm not saying the horse flies are big and tough but I did see one last night that was so big it was pulling a little sign behind it that said "OFF, Breakfast of Champions"! Wow, this place needs a good freeze!

Another thing you must watch out for is the shrimp boats. Many of the shrimpers live on these rivers so you must anchor so that you don't block their way out to the ocean. Often you must use two anchors, one bow and one stern, to keep you from swinging too far into the river.

Jekyll Island Georgia

I stopped at Jekyll Harbor Marina for the night. My friend Phil from the Bahamas recommended the stop and I'm glad he did. When I finished docking the dockmaster said "you'll love this place, there is nothing here." And he was right, it's a beautiful island that is very quite and peaceful. They like to refer to the marina as "the Mayberry of marinas" referring to the small town in Andy Griffit's tv show years ago.

Jekyll Island was once the playground for the wealthiest families such as the Rockefellers, Morgans, and Vanderbilts. The private resort is gone but there is miles of bike and walking paths, tennis courts, and other leftover amenities from the glory days. The Marina has free bikes to use on the paths, a free loaner van for shopping on the island, free laundry facility, free wifi, and a very nice restaurant on the marina property.

Tomorrow I will try to cover 50 or 60 miles. How far I get depends on how I hit the tide current. The current determines how fast you travel. I like to keep my engine at about 2500 RPMs and that gives me 5.3 knots. If the tide is against me I only get 3.5 knots but if it is with me I get 6 knots or better. Therefore you try to time your voyage so the tide is favorable most of the time. At any rate, tomorrow night will be an anchor out night because Georgia has very few marinas on the ICW.