Taking A Week Off

Bev arrived on the 22nd and I was ready to take a week off from sailing. We decided to take a week and see some sites around Southern Virginia and Northern North Carolina. Bev's cousin Randy and his wife Christina live in Virginia Beach and offered us the use of Randy's pickup for the week. Randy took some time off from flying and got us orientated to the area.


Then it was off in the pickup for the military and historical sites in Norfolk. We visited the Nauticus museum including the battleship "Wisconsin" and then took the harbor cruise on the "Victory Rover". We saw many ships but the highlight for Bev and I was the "USS Cole" which was bombed in Yemen a few years ago and is now repaired and back in service.

The next day we headed for Yorktown. Yorktown is where the British General Cornwallis surrendered to George Washington which led to victory for the US in the Revolutionary War. The history is fascinating and include many things that I did not know. The French are truly responsible for our victory because their Navy (under French Admiral de Grasse in photo next to Bev) prevented the British Navy from saving Cornwallis in the naval Battle of the Capes. There were no Americans involved in that battle and it forced Cornwallis to surrender. At the Yorktown Battlefield we found that the French also won major parts of the Battle of Yorktown which sealed Cornwallis's fate. While in Yorktown we found a little restaurant on the Yorktown River for lunch. While looking out across the river we wondered if this was the same bridge that we crossed after visiting Kirk and Ruth Foley 20 years ago? I happen to have Kirk's phone number in my cell phone so I called him. Sure enough, it was and Kirk was able to describe to us where his marina was. Cool!

That evening Christina invited us over to their home for a homemade Chinese dinner. The first thing we did was put on the slippers Christina gave us (a Chinese tradition). The conversation and dinner was incredible and delicious. I think she spoiled us for "American" Chinese food with her authentic Chinese food. She agreed to take us to a genuine Chinese grocery store before we left (which she did the next Sunday). Randy and Christina have very interesting lives and a beautiful home and we enjoyed being with them.

Another interesting aspect of our stay here is the fact that we are right next to a combination Navy and Army base/fort. Thus we have bugles playing the "Star Spangled Banner" every morning and "Retreat" every evening. It is the home of a SEAL Group (formerly SEAL group 6) and a Joint Expeditionary Force.

Our next trip was to Colonial Williamsburg which we assumed (correctly) would take more than one day so we got reservations for the night on line. We walked to the old town center and took a horse drawn wagon tour of the town. As we approached the wagon I noticed the driver resting under a tree. I said something like "I hope you have the air on" but he didn't say a thing. As it turned out the actors stay in character all the time and are full time actors, not part time or volunteers.

This makes the experience very real and historically correct. One of the historically correct things I really enjoyed was the glass of Old Stitch ale I had at Chownings Tavern. Old Stitch is made from an original recipe and is what many people drank back in the 1700's. The Jefferson presentation was very real and we were able to ask questions which he answered from Jefferson's point of view. Many of the presentations are interactive so when we went to the courthouse for a trial I was put on trial for not attending church. They gave me a short script to read but then expanded on it asking me questions and demanding answers, it was real fun! Then we went to an example of dances from the period and we learned to dance like George Washington did.

After learning a new dance we went outside to the street where they were acting out a typical day in pre-revolutionary Colonial Williamsburg. Tomorrow we head for the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

Alligator River to Nortfolk

On the 18th I sailed to the Alligator River Marina, on the 19th to Midway Marina, and on the 20th to Tidewater Marina in Norfolk (ICW MM 0). It took me 31 days to move 1014 miles up the ICW. Eight of those days were "rest" days so I really spent 23 days sailing and motoring alone on Summer Snow. Many people have asked "would you do it again?" The answer is Yes, I would do it again because it was a very interesting and challenging experience but I would change a few things. It would have been a lot easier with a "shoal keel" of less than 5 ft. and it would have been more fun with another person (Bev) on board. On the other hand I have gained great experience by "single handing" Summer Snow so that docking and anchoring in new or strange conditions are not big issues anymore. My confidence in handing the sails alone and navigating has increased so that I can relax and enjoy sailing in "new waters".

The Alligator River is part man made and part natural river. There was regular barge traffic and debris such as this tree (second picture) floating in the middle of the channel. I stayed at the Alligator River Marina which was a combination truck stop and marina. The food was good and the people very friendly.


Next was the Midway Marina which is an older facility but had everything I needed such as ice and a nice shower. The on site restaurant (third picture) looked a little "iffy" but was OK when you got inside.

After leaving Midway Marina I only had 49.5 miles of ICW to go. I planned on staying over night at Tidewater Marina when I got to Norfolk so I could rest up and get organized. Then the next day I sailed to Ocean View Fishing Harbor where Randy (Bev's cousin) and Christina keep their boat, Miss Molly. There I waited for Bev who arrived on the 22nd.

Nortfolk is a huge harbor (worlds largest naval shipyard) with tugs, container ships, US Navy ships, Coast Guard ships, harbor tours, and all kinds of private boats. It was said that you could put every ship in the world in the harbor (Hampton Roads) and still have room for more.

The whole region has a large military presence including the largest and oldest VA hospital in the US. The last picture is Hospital Point with the main building of the VA hospital which was built in the early 1800's.

As soon as Bev arrives we will spend a week visiting with Randy and Christina and seeing the sites in Southern Virginia and Northern North Carolina, particularly Yorktown, Williamsburg, and the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

Oriental and Belhaven NC

After leaving Morehead City my next stop was Oriental, NC. Oriental is a sailing destination because it is located on the Neuse River which opens up onto Pamlico Sound. It is not a very big place but has some nice shops and is kind of sail orientated. The sail was not too eventful except for a few barges on Adam's Creek.

After a very nice evening at Oriental I got an early start on Monday morning to my next destination, Belhaven. I was able to sail and motor sail all morning and made great time with the wind on my beam or off the port quarter. Things seemed very good until I got to the Pamlico River. That's when the wind really picked up and the water became rough. I made for Belhaven with the waves on my beam which made Summer Snow very uncomfortable. The wind was howling behind the Belhaven breakwater and I called into the Belhaven Waterway Marina only to be put off for a half hour and then told that they could not accommodate me due to my 5.5 ft draft. It seems that they could have figured that out in less time but whatever! I turned back and called into another rather old looking marina that I had passed up. They were very accommodating and I got right in. After doubling up my dock lines and putting every fender out I decided that I would stay here until the wind backs down. Here is is Tuesday and the wind is still raging. I have a little time cushion so I'll just hang tight for a few days if necessary.

This marina is kind of interesting although not much of it is open. It was a country inn with a long history of catering to political big wigs. It looks like a fancy hotel or plantation house with tennis courts, swimming pool, bar, restaurant, etc. According to one of the locals there is a bar in the attic that was a speakeasy back during Prohibition. The only things open are the gas dock and the restrooms. The owner said we could watch television in the lounge any time we want but the lounge, restaurant, etc are not open for business.

Belhaven is a town of about 4000 so there is a small cafe and bakery about 5 blocks away and a FoodLion store about a mile away so I'm not hurting too bad.

Morehead City

I was able to call my friends, Phil and Kathleen, and they directed me into the Morehead City transient dock. Unfortunately the current was such that I could not get Summer Snow into a slip. Everything I tried failed and she swung broadside before pointing into the slip. This made for a few exciting moments and after six tries I went to a marina that had a "wall" type dock and waited there until the current went slack. Then I got into the transient slip OK.

While waiting for slack current Phil and I went and had a slice of pizza at a great little local pizza place that Phil wanted me to try. Then we went to a coffee place and enjoyed a wonderful brew. Phil and Kathleen are such gracious hosts you would think I was a long lost relative. Phil seems to know everyone in Morehead City and Beaufort and so we had a great day seeing the towns including the Nina and Pinta which were on display at the Beaufort waterfront.

After seeing much of the towns we went back to Phil and Kathleen's home and they let me do my laundry while they made a fantastic steak and baked potato supper (they wanted to fix a "Midwestern" meal). After supper we went to the Beaufort Music Festival and finally to the Dairy Queen to meet their son Philip and have an ice cream. Phil came down to the dock at daybreak the next day and helped me cast off. What great friends you make on sailing adventures!

Surf City to Swansboro NC

After spending a night in Southport NC I entered the Cape Fear River. My speed dropped to 1.5 knots and I remembered a fellow cruiser back in Myrtle Beach asking me "what are you going to do with the Cape Fear River?" I didn't have an answer because I didn't know what the issue was but now I know. The ICW follows the river for 6 or 7 miles and it flows at 2+ knots. Those two knots plus a falling tide of about 1.5 knot is subtracted from your SOG (speed over ground). There really was little I could do because the next rising tide wasn't until well into the afternoon and if I waited for that I would be on the ICW after dark (not a good idea). So I just relaxed and let Summer Snow grind it out.

I got to Surf City a little late so checked into a little marina there. The marina manager said that the Nina and Pinta replicas were coming in so I prepared for a photo op. Unfortunately they didn't come in until well after dark. They must be real true replicas because they did not have auxiliary power and had to be pushed to the wall with little boats. No matter, I can take some photos in the morning. Wrong! They left before daybreak and I have not seen them since. :>(

From Surf City I went to Swansboro which is a very nice little town on the ICW. It seems that every city has an "Old Town" section with little shops and resturants for tourists. Swansboro is no exception so I found a great little expresso/bakery shop and relaxed with a brew and a sweet roll. Yum!

Next it is on the Morehead City where I will meet my friends Phil and Kathleen who I met while crossing to the Bahamas.

On to North Carolina

I left North Myrtle Beach at daybreak with a goal of reaching Southport, NC. There were no restroom or shower facilities at Myrtle Beach so I was anxious to move on. The ICW continues to be beautiful here with many small inlets to the ocean. I got a good "kick" with the tides pushing me instead of holding me back so I made real good time arriving in Southport at 2:30 PM. I will spend an extra day here resting up for the next leg.

I saw a guy canoeing up the ICW today. His canoe was packed full so I think he was going a long way. Southport has some nice restaurants so this will be a welcome break. I will also get to refill my water tank with fresh water and do a few boat projects.

As I was checking in a guy came up behind me and said "what are you doing here?" I turned and it was Tim who I met in Marsh Harbor Bahamas. Tim had arrived the day before and had just experienced a terrible crossing. He had two inexperienced sailors on board who got very sea sick plus many mechanical failures. His engine died just as they left the Abacos and then his auto steering quit. Then the toilets plugged up and the non-sailor girl got real upset and nasty. She locked herself in the forward stateroom for a couple of days and wouldn't come out. When she did come out there was vomit all over the place. Then she demanded to get off the boat even though they were still 50 miles off shore. Finally her boyfriend (also sea sick) payed SeaTow $1000 to come and get her off the sailboat. Money well spent from Tim's viewpoint. He said it was 4 days of hell with her on board.

Charleston to Georgetown to Myrtle Beach

I have been pushing real hard and am dog tired so this will be a short posting. I took a few pics but am too tired to fix them up and add them so I'll add them later when I'm more awake.

I left Charleston at first light and made 60+ miles to Georgetown, SC. George town is a really cool little town that has renovated their downtown into a beautiful waterfront walk that includes many little shops and restaurants. It is worthy of a stop by anyone who is in the area. They even have their own museum on the main drag.

I left at first light again and headed for Myrtle Beach. Lots of golf courses along the ICW and many upscale homes and "starter mansions". What was interesting though was the beautiful forests that lined the ICW. The tall trees came right up to waters edge unlike the marshes that I have been going through. This reminded me of the Boundary Waters in appearances except for the moss hanging from most of the trees. I am definitely out of palm tree country.